The mountains of Hakone come to life with the blooming of hydrangea in spring. There are many places to see the famed flowers in the area, but one the most enjoyable experiences is the evening “Hakone Tozan Ajisai Train.” The Hakone Tozan train is a switch-back train running from Hakone Yumoto Station to Gora Station up the mountains. The railroad was built to connect Hakone-Yumoto, the gateway to Hakone, and Hakone Gora Park, located in the middle of the Hakone mountains. The track is one of the steepest in the world, second only to one in Switzerland. The trains running on this historic railway have also been upgraded recently and include the 3100 series train that has one numerous design awards. This new train also includes large windows that let you feel the vibrant surroundings as you make you way through the forest.
The Hakone Tozan Railway includes 7 stations, all with different personalities, histories, and sites to enjoy and explore. The trip from Yumoto to Gora takes about 40 minutes and allows you to immerse yourself in the natural beauty of Hakone`s lush mountains and deep river ravines. The construction of the railway was an engineering marvel for its time.
It was opened in 1919. It was in the Taisho era (1912-1926), when Japanese people still wore kimonos. At that time, Japan did not have the technology to lay tracks on the steep mountains of Hakone, so the Swiss mountain railroad was used as a reference. The cowbells installed on the platforms of Hakone-Yumoto and Gora stations were a gift from the Swiss Rhaetian Railway, with whom the two countries have a sister railroad agreement.
When the train reaches the steepest part of the slope, the difference in height between the driver’s seat in the first car and the crew’s compartment in the last car can be as much as 3.6 meters for a three-car train. In order to make it up this slope, various measures are taken. One of them is the switchback.
A switchback is a method of zigzagging up a hill while the train moves forward and backward. The switchbacks allow the train to climb up the mountain, sticking to the surface of the mountain, instead of having to follow the tracks all the way up the mountain.
On the Hakone Tozan Railway, the direction of travel is switched three times between Hakone-Yumoto Station and Gora Station, at the Dezan, Ohiradai and Kami-Ohiradai signal stations. Each time, the driver in the first carriage and the conductor in the last carriage also change. When you are in an old car, pay attention to the movement of the driver you see outside the window. In his hand, he is holding the brake valve handle of the train. Yes, the handle is removed, carried and replaced every time the train makes a switchback.
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Route & Elevation
Traversing from Hakone‑Yumoto → Gora (with a cable‑car link to Sōunzan), the 16 km route gains nearly 450 m altitude, using three iconic switchbacks. These curves and gradients only enhance the dramatic floral show -
Ten Thousand Blossoms
Approximately 7,000–10,000 hydrangea plants line the tracks, blooming sequentially—lower elevations in mid‑June, higher ones into late July -
Night Hydrangea Train
From around June 14–30, special evening trains offer illuminated hydrangea displays. These reserved-seat experiences include sections with mood lighting and occasional photo‑stop moments -
Cultivated with Care
Since the 1970s, the railway has actively planted and maintained the flowers—even the company president takes part!
It takes about one minute for the driver to check the safety of the train, change the car, and start the train again. The time for the driver and conductor to switch sides is surprisingly short. So, when it is raining or snowing, the driver gets a little nervous. This is because there is a possibility of slipping and falling on the uncovered platform at the signal station.
The Hakone Tozan Railway is a wonderful experience regardless of season. We hope you have the time and spirit to explore and see all the wonderful things along this historic line.
Other Must‑See Hydrangea Spots in Hakone
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Hakone Gōra Park
A charming French‑style garden bursting with hydrangeas amid formal flower beds. -
Hotel de Yama (Motohakone)
Stroll along lakeside paths lined with 230 plants across 25 varieties. Enjoy sweeping views of Lake Ashi and Mt. Fuji beyond. This gardenn is most famous for the spring azaleas. -
Hakone Venetian Glass Museum
Enchanting synergy of real and crystal hydrangeas nestled in European‑style garden settings in the Sengoku area. -
Onshi Hakone Park (Onshi-per‑Hakone Koen)
Once the imperial family’s villa, now a public park with seasonal blooms and panoramic lake vistas…and Fuji on a good day! -
Hakone Open‑Air Museum
Sculptures and greenery harmonize as hydrangeas weave through the outdoor art spaces. -
Ohiradai Station “Hydrangea Path”
A gentle walk beside steaming hot springs and floral-lined tracks—especially lovely during evening lighting.